Once the old goo is loose I can't imagine it takes much to break it free.
One thing I have heard is any heat on a Unertl is a no go but your method of using the screw driver tip as the heat sink is probably safe. I too have a pet affection for these optics and own several.īased on the work I've seen you post this probably falls into the easy category but than again it's the "easy" ones that destroy an excellent reputation. The steel is better and you'll notice right away that the blade geometry on the inserts are radically different than what you'll find on a Snap On truck or Sears. The best bet is a tip out of the Brownells super set. We use this technique almost daily with the group buy as actions often arrive with base screws in less than pristine condition. It'll travel down into the screw and heat soak the immediate area without scorching the surrounding area. Use one of the little butane "crack torches" and tap your screw driver insert into the screw to where it stands alone. You just don't cook the screw with a torch.
When I'm faced with this stuff I make the screw driver blade to where I have to tap it into the slot. You can't just go blazing away on the screw driver otherwise you'll cook the heat treat right out of it. The trick is getting the screw driver edge ground/machined just right so that you have an almost interference fit with what's left of the slot. Is removing a stuck screw from a scope gunsmith work? Can a smith repair/replace just about any screw of American manufacture? Sounds legit but takes more balls than I have. He told me to fit a screw driver blade to what remains of the screw, unplug a drill press, mount the blade end in a drill press, use firm pressure from the press on the screw and turn the chuck by hand to remove the screw. Unfortunately he is not taking work right now. I spoke with a gentleman that is well versed in working on Unertl scopes. The screw that is frozen in place is somewhat chewed up and the collar wont pass over it. Ive been told usually removing just one screw will allow the collar to pass. In my case I cant get one of the erector screws out in order to do what I want to do.
They are oval head and protrude just ever so slightly that they prevent sliding the spring collars off the pope rib, down the tube toward the ocular and off the scope body. There are two screws that hold the erector in the scope body just behind the pope rib. The Marines did not use the recoil spring assembly and I need to remove it in order to get the look. Im intending on using this scope in building a fake USMC 1903 with telescopic glass, M1941. Its in real good shape but sitting in a closet for the last 40 odd years froze up a bunch of stuff. I recently bought a nice Unertl 10X external mount scope.